Buttons - a story of know-how
Nestled in the Lyon region, we have chosen exceptional expertise to manufacture our buttons: that of Corne et Corozo. A button maker since 1929, this workshop works with a strong ecological dynamic and embraces the values of our brand: a committed wardrobe. We interviewed our supplier and preferred contact Nicolas, global key account manager in the button workshop.
1° Can you introduce Corne et Corozo to me in a few words, as well as its know-how and your role within the company?
The company Corne et Corozo was created in 1929 and is located in the Lyon region . It is one of the last French buttonmakers specializing in the creation of buttons.
The company was a pioneer in launching its first collection of eco-designed buttons in 2017, following customer demand but also out of conviction. Today, it offers a wealth of eco-designed, recycled or bio-sourced product solutions .
Since then, Corne et Corozo has invested heavily in the certification of its products in order to prove their composition and is proud to have obtained ISO 14001 certification in 2023 in order to support its eco-responsible commitments .
2° Why did you choose to move into the world of buttons?
Since I was little, I have been passionate about fashion, especially shoes. I first worked in luxury shoes. I wanted to be closer to the brands, and to really be part of the creative process. By becoming a buttonmaker, my dream came true, because from now on I spend my days in my clients' workshops. And nothing makes me happier than seeing a collection develop, by adding my small contribution. Seeing my buttons on clothes in the street is a source of pride, even when they are pieces made by a brand like yours whose values I share.
3° What distinguishes Corne et Corozo from other companies in the button sector?
Aside from the fact that we are the oldest French buttonmaker still in business, what really sets Corne et Corozo apart from the competition is its desire over the past 7 years to become as virtuous as possible. In particular by offering customers who wanted it Eco-Responsible alternatives to materials of fossil or natural origin . We want to contribute on our scale to making this industry cleaner. This is also why we are working on the notions of business certification.
4° What are the key stages in the manufacturing process of a button from raw material to finished product?
I take this opportunity to talk about my favorite material, namely corozo . It is a nut that grows on a palm tree. The natural color resembles ivory, which is why we often talk about vegetable ivory. We recognize this material thanks to the veins that we see when the button is dyed. It looks like wavelets, it is almost poetic to contemplate a beautiful button dyed in corozo .
The process of making corozo is as follows. We will cut out pegs from the nuts like backgammon checkers. Then from these checkers we will remove material to reveal the shape of the button that we want to develop. The size and thickness of the checker is important because it must be large and thick enough for the machine to correctly develop the shape. This part is called turning.
Once the pawn is turned and the shape is therefore achieved , we will take care of finishing the button to remove small imperfections. Once this step is done, in the case where the customer wishes to dye the button, we will soak the buttons in a tank of water. 24 hours later the buttons will have expanded, and they will be able to accommodate the dye pigments. The dyeing is artisanal , it is a process carried out by men, or rather by women because it is our dyers who take care of this high added value task . I must admit that this is the part that impresses me the most. Starting from a piece of fabric and making a tone-on-tone color on a button is not easy at all. Some colors are more complicated to achieve than others, and the process can sometimes last several days before finding the right tone. You will never look at a dyed button the same way again, if you knew how much patience and the expert eye of our dyers it requires. Once the right color is achieved, the buttons are removed from the dye bath and placed in a large oven that will allow the corozo to regain its initial shape, its original shape because with prolonged contact with water it had become more flexible and swollen. When it comes out of the oven, a person other than a dyer will check the colors in relation to the customer's fabric to ensure that the color is suitable, otherwise the buttons will be altered.
5° What are the main challenges you face?
But the challenges we face throughout the year are very numerous. Particularly with regard to the CSR aspect of our business. We set the bar very high, we are very demanding with ourselves so that CCR becomes the reference in Europe in terms of ethics and Eco responsibility. But often this is to the detriment of CCR, because all our initiatives (R&D certification, training, etc. ) have an enormous cost for a company of our size and we cannot pass this on to our prices because the fashion sector is in a pivotal period where the trend is rather towards the economy. It is therefore a bet on the future that we are making. We start from the principle that we must make a big effort now in order to reap the benefits later. We want to make brands that do not yet know us want to work with us . By sharing common values, such as the desire to reduce their impact or, for example, to manufacture quality products that will be sustainable . My role has evolved enormously since COVID, brands are increasingly asking me for advice and discussions with me regarding the choice of their buttons. How to use more virtuous buttons without it weighing too heavily on the margin, that's my challenge . Making people understand that you can't have it all is my role , or you have to agree to pay the price . Wanting traceability, transparency, certifications, quality, etc. at low-end prices is not possible. Yet this is what we ask for on a daily basis. Which is not the case for brands like yours, where the starting premise has always been to produce quality clothing with the least possible impact, without this being to the detriment of the look or durability.
6° How do you guarantee the quality and durability of your buttons?
We have an internal quality department that checks all production outputs (colors, thickness, material, size, etc.) and keeps a tracking sheet up to date.
We have established a table with each material with usage tips for better durability. In particular for corozo buttons we recommend applying a protective varnish to prevent bleeding and for zamack buttons to apply a protective anti -oxidation varnish.
7° Do you use artisanal techniques or rather advanced techniques in the production of your buttons?
The button-making profession still requires the human hand, particularly in cutting out the pieces from natural materials such as mother-of-pearl, horn, corozo, etc. Turning is automated, even if the machines are adjusted manually and production is supervised by technicians.
Today we offer advanced techniques such as UV printing, vacuum metallization, etc.
8° Where do the materials you use come from? How do you source your raw materials?
It all depends on the materials. Corozo , for example, comes from Ecuador. Eco Gala made from recycled milk (98%) comes from Ireland and Italy. We are constantly looking for virtuous materials that can meet the requirements of the fashion industry. It is a very big challenge because the material must withstand repeated washing of clothes, heat, be dyeable, be very strong, etc. The specifications are huge, the constraints numerous, but the adventure is great. Finding a material that ticks all these boxes, and that allows us to offer our customers alternatives to fossil or animal materials is a great source of pride. Like for example the 100% recycled French fishing net.
9° 3 words to define Corne and Corozo:
Transparency, modernity, heritage
10° If Mister K was a button, which one would it be and why?
This would definitely be an elegant, sleek, eco-friendly and durable button. I would say our reference 6474, with a sublime dye that highlights the natural veins of this material. A glossy varnish to accentuate the finish, and bring out the assets of the corozo .
